TEXTILE HERITAGE · NORTH INDIA

Jammu & Kashmir

PASHMINA — THE SIGNATURE WEAVE

Jammu & Kashmir PASHMINA & KANI
THE STORY

The Warmth of the Changthangi Goat

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“It is not wool. It is light, spun.”

In the high cold of Ladakh, the Changthangi goat grows an undercoat so fine it passes through a ring. Kashmir’s weavers have spun that fleece into pashmina for over six centuries, since the shawl trade made Srinagar a stop on the Silk Road.

The kani shawl—woven on a loom with sticks as its palette—became the crown of the craft, and pashmina the softest word in the wardrobe of the world.

Ornamental Globe
Flower Globe
Ornamental Globe
Jammu & Kashmir PASHMINA & KANI
THROUGH THE AGES

A Timeline of the Weave

peacock
C. 15TH CENTURY

The Shawl Trade

Srinagar becomes the shawl capital of the Silk Road.

18TH CENTURY

Royal Demand

Persian and European courts compete for the rarest kani shawls.

1870s

Napoleon & Paisley

European demand reshapes patterns—and names the paisley after the shawl town of Paisley.

PRESENT

Kani Revival

Zardozi commissions kani shawls in the traditional stick-looms of Srinagar.

How the Weave Evolved

In the high cold of Ladakh, the Changthangi goat grows an undercoat so fine it passes through a ring. Kashmir’s weavers have spun that fleece into pashmina for over six centuries, since the shawl trade made Srinagar a stop on the Silk Road.

The kani shawl—woven on a loom with sticks as its palette—became the crown of the craft, and pashmina the softest word in the wardrobe of the world.

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting Facts

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The Changthangi goat yields only 80–170 grams of underfleece per year.

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True pashmina is never machine-spun; the hand spindle is non-negotiable.

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A kani shawl can take a year to complete.

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Two genuine pashmina shawls pass through a wedding ring.

ZARDOZI GALLERY

In the Loom's Light

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