TEXTILE HERITAGE · EAST INDIA

Bihar

BHAGALPURI TUSSAR — THE SIGNATURE WEAVE

Bihar BHAGALPURI & TUSSAR SILK
THE STORY

The Gold of the Forest

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“Tussar is the silk that refuses to be tamed.”

Bhagalpur has spun tussar—wild silk from the cocoons of the Antheraea moth—for over four centuries, when the Anga kings patronised its golden sheen. Unlike cultivated mulberry silk, tussar comes from the forests themselves.

Its naturally honeyed colour, called “bhagalpuri gold,” needs no dye to shine, and the craft remains the livelihood of some 70,000 weavers in the region.

Ornamental Globe
Flower Globe
Ornamental Globe
Bihar BHAGALPURI & TUSSAR SILK
THROUGH THE AGES

A Timeline of the Weave

peacock
C. 16TH CENTURY

Anga Patronage

Tussar weaving flourishes under the Anga kings.

18TH CENTURY

The Golden Cloth

Bhagalpur tussar is traded to courts and fairs across India.

1900s

Handloom Heartland

The craft becomes Bihar’s signature handloom.

PRESENT

GI & Modern Drape

GI-tagged tussar now weaves contemporary silhouettes.

How the Weave Evolved

Bhagalpur has spun tussar—wild silk from the cocoons of the Antheraea moth—for over four centuries, when the Anga kings patronised its golden sheen. Unlike cultivated mulberry silk, tussar comes from the forests themselves.

Its naturally honeyed colour, called “bhagalpuri gold,” needs no dye to shine, and the craft remains the livelihood of some 70,000 weavers in the region.

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting Facts

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Tussar is never cultivated—it is harvested from forests.

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Its natural colour is called “bhagalpuri gold.”

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Around 70,000 weavers work in Bhagalpur’s tussar cluster.

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The cloth is biodegradable, including its dyes.

ZARDOZI GALLERY

In the Loom's Light

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